JUNEAU, ALASKA—Juneau is one of the most popular destinations in Alaska, frequented by over a million visitors a year. Tourists flock from all over the world to visit the capital city, a small town of 30,000 people snugly nestled at the foot of the Coast Mountains in Southeast Alaska’s panhandle.
Situated in the middle of the Tongass National Forest, Juneau is a place where the mountains meet the sea. It is blanketed by lush greenery—part of a temperate rainforest (the largest in the world), which spans the length of the western coast of North America.
Yet the vast majority of the visitors to this little enclave of liberalism do so via cruise ship. Princess, Holland America, Carnival, Disney, and scores of other operators ferry passengers through the southeast passage, also making stops in Skagway, Ketchikan, and Glacier Bay.
Few spend the night in Juneau and have more than a few hours to explore this little town filled with educated, outdoors-oriented naturalists. I’ve been fortunate enough to spend the summer adventuring around Juneau, and compiled a list of my favorite actives—if you have the time for them.
1) Summit Mount Juneau—Mount Juneau looms over downtown, and can be seen from pretty much everywhere around the business district—if the cloud cover allows.
The trailhead is easily accessible from the Perseverance Trail, a popular downtown hike for locals. It’ll take you roughly two hours to reach the summit of Mount Juneau, depending on how fast you choose to move.
The first thousand feet or so of elevation find you scrambling through low-lying brush, but soon after you’ll burst above the tree-line and zig-zag along switchbacks on the side of the mountain, keeping your eyes peeled for the mountain goats that scamper along the rocky overhangs that dot the side of the mountain.
Before long, you’ll find yourself at the top of the peak, with few other people in sight. On a clear day, the peak affords you gorgeous views of Chilkat Mountain Range, towards the east across the Gastineau Channel, and the Coast Mountains, sitting ominously inland behind you as you stare at the city below.
2) Bike the Herbert Glacier Trail—The most popular glacier in Juneau is the Mendenhall, but those who are a bit more adventurous can make their way to the Herbert Glacier, about thirty miles north of downtown. A rocky yet maintained trail, four miles in length, runs along to the Herbert River and through giant western hemlock and sitka spruce trees. Small ponds dot the landscape, and on a sunny day make for a quaint place to park your bike and read a book, or have a picnic.
The final half-mile of the trail is accessible by scrambling through a narrow path of rock and sand, and must be hiked, but the best way to cover most of the trail is with your mountain bike—the trail is easily navigable, and features few steep inclines. The clean, refreshing air of the rainforest coupled with the golden light peeking through the towering coniferous trees is a wonderful way to experience a glacial valley away from the hoards of other people.
3) Catch a Sunset on the Beaches of Douglas Island— During the summer months this will mean heading to the northern end of Douglas Island, a tidal island across the Gastineau Channel from mainland Juneau.
In the summertime, Juneau gets about 18 hours of sunlight—making for long days, and preternaturally longer sunsets. This time of year, the sun will actually set towards the north, as long as the cloud cover allows.
4) Kayak to the Ice Caves of Mendenhall Glacier— The Mendenhall Glacier is visited by 500,000 people every year, the vast majority of which unload from 60-person coach buses, and amble towards the visitor center. There are countless photos of the Glacier from the same viewpoint, and everyone who stands in this spot remarks upon the handful of intrepid kayakers, donned in colorful gear, paddling far closer to the glacier than these visitors could ever imagine.
You can put your kayak in at Mendenhall Lake (about two miles from the face) and paddle in the frigid water for hours at a time. The scale of the ice is put into perspective by the two four-thousand-foot mountains on either side of the Glacier, and kayaking will give you a perspective that few others get.
Should you dare, paddle to the rocky shores at the foot of the Glacier to explore the ice caves—constantly changing due to the recession of the Mendenhall.
5) Photograph Wildlife— There is no shortage of wildlife around Juneau: bald eagles perched on lampposts, salmon making their way up freshwater streams, and bears on the side of the road.
DIPAC, or Douglas Island Pink and Chum, is a hatchery well-known for the salmon which return to spawn every year in the mid-summer months. They can be seen jumping out of the shallow water, trying to make their way upstream and avoid being eaten by bald eagles, which perch in the trees just above, waiting for their prey.
Eagles nest near the water, because that’s where their food is. They can easily be found in the trees by looking for their white heads, distinct against the dark green needles of the spruce trees which they favor.
Black bears, while far more skittish around humans, can occasionally be seen from hiking trails around Juneau, or around the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center. While they make for incredible subjects, they should be treated with respect: they are wild animals, and you are in their home now.
Wildlife is everywhere you look around Juneau—just be sure to have your camera ready.
6) Make a Trip to the Brewery— Go to any bar in Alaska, and you’re certain to find a brew from Alaskan Brewing Company on tap. There’s something for everyone—from the Icy Bay IPA to the Smoked Porter, you can spend a whole evening sampling the beers available from Alaska’s most popular brewing company.
While their beers can be found everywhere in the 49th State, the brewery is a bit more difficult to get to: located in the industrial district of Juneau, you need to take a shuttle bus from downtown, or drive yourself.
However, the mahogany-paneled walls and the intimate atmosphere make for a relaxing place to while away the afternoon after a hike once you find yourself in the taproom.
7) Rent a Forest Service Cabin— There are dozens different cabins that the Forest Service offers for rent around Southeast Alaska—most of which need to be reserved far in advance, and require a decent hike to get to.
While you’ll need to bring everything you need to spend the night, these remote spots offer a roof over your head and stunning vistas of the mountains and channels around the Juneau area.
The John Muir Cabin, pictured above, affords you a gorgeous view of the Gastineau Channel and with it, downtown Juneau.
8) Have a Bonfire at the Beach— It rains all the time in Southeast Alaska, but on a clear night you can find everyone circled around fires on the various beaches which dot the coastline. Some are sandy, and some are rocky, but all make for cozy places to gather with friends.
On a clear night, you might even be able to see the Northern Lights—if you’re lucky.
9) Go Salmon Fishing— Fishing for salmon isn’t for the faint of heart—between purchasing a license ($25 for the day), a rod, and all your gear, it can run you a pretty penny. You’ll need to find out what kind of salmon are in season, where they are currently running—and what they look like. If you want to take anything home, you’ll need a cooler, a filet knife, and a strong stomach.
But even if you are just out to enjoy the outdoors, all you’ll need is a good pair of boots and a warm jacket. Standing at the water’s edge will be one of the most relaxing meditations you’ve ever had.
If your idea of an adventure is getting outdoors, then Southeast Alaska is the place to be—as long as you don’t mind a little rain. Most worthwhile activities require a little bit of planning and a determination to get off the beaten path, but Juneau offers something for everyone: from hiking and biking to photography and culture, spending a few days in Alaska’s capital is well worth your time!